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Chambertin..... Romanee St. Vivant.....


Chambertin 1985 L. Latour

7/94. Bought in Beaune Oct-92 for $100.
The most famous Grand Cru of Gevrey-Chambertin from Latour's 'Heritiers' plot. Dark and deep, good looking color.
Aroma was less pronounced at first, maybe earth or leather but no fruit. First taste - mature, full, back-boned and complex.
When having the first course it seemed a bit dumb and closed. After breathing for a while, the wine unveiled layer after layer of complex bouquet and taste, getting better by the minute!
Main course: Very young and tender veal (we call it "Milk Veal") lightly sauteed in butter.
Now was the time for the Chambertin to show its multi-dimensional harmony. By this time we noticed the "legs" of the Chambertin, the marks it leaves on the glass when we turn it. The glycerin was so evident I dont think I never saw such a "fat" wine.
By the time we got to the cheese-plate, the Chambertin was at its best though without long after-taste. Although very good, I suspect it could have reached higher spheres in the hand of a good source (which Latour is not for red wines).
MARK: 16+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.


Romanee St. Vivant 1985 L. Latour

7/94. Acquired from Beaune Sep 93 for $90 (imported for $120 net).
This Grand Cru from Vosne-Romanee is from Latour's own plot "Les Quatre Journaux".
When first poured into the glass, it was obvious the wine is past its prime. The brownish light color, clearer at the rim was quite evident. A little depressed, we sniffed the wine. Surprise! The RSV had a definitely spicy perfumed aroma, unbelievably more powerful than could be expected from such a feeble looking wine. The bouquet had an ethery and 'oriental' quality but reminded us of no fruit.
First taste: A bit washed-out but carries the bouquet to the tongue. Having been left to breath during the first course which wouldn't go with any wine, the RSV retained it powerful bouquet and developed a distinct and tasty tinge, as if trying desperately to keep its balance.
Second course: Spaghetti with delicate meat-fillet sauce. (NOT Bolognese!), yummy. This dish turned out to be just what the doctor said to have with a fighting-for-its-life RSV! It happily married the tasty and delicate spaghetti. By that time we reached the cheese-plate, RSV was almost finished and whatever was left of it rested peacefully in the Heavens of Wines.
Although a VERY interesting and educating experience, A 10-year RSV that is over-the-hill is another disappointing red Bourgogne from Latour.
MARK: 16/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.


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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.