Beaune - Clos des Mouches	1985	J. Drouhin

7/94. Acquired from Beaune Jun-94 for $32 (imported for $40 net).
One of the best Beaune 1er Cru from Drouhin's own Domain.
Approached the bottle with apprehension. Some suggested that the '85s are beyond their prime, prepared myself for disappointment.
One hour "chambree" from 14C, stood open for another 30 min.
First impression: Medium red-ruby color, no sign of browning. Fantastic strong red-fruits and flowery aroma! Fruity taste with vibrant acidic overtones, long lasting finish. The total sensation of a young, vigorous, but open wine.
First course: Assortment of mild Chinese "Dim Sum" (from a near-by Deli...< g >). After the first bite or two, the wine (come d'habitude) loses the initial astringency and becomes very smooth and savory on the palate. A hint of earthy leathery quality starts to creep in.
Main course: Fillet stake covered with mushrooms and bacon, baked in a coarse-salt envelope (another masterpiece by she who must be obeyed).
The wine, obviously fully mature, retains a curious and exciting balance between youth and grown-up qualities! Still fruity though less strikingly so then at the beginning, but with the added unmistakable Bourgogne touch of... I can never find the right word for it in ANY language. Nevertheless anybody who have tasted a good mature Bourgogne knows what I'm taking about. Extremely tasty and long (about 30 sec.), the mixture of fruit and "velvet barnyard?< vbg >" makes this wine a great companion to the tasteful dish. We struggled to leave some wine for the cheese plate, but frankly very little was left. This is an immensely tasty wine. Now in its prime.
Usually a wine has fruity qualities in its youth, and mature sober silkiness in its maturity (many times with a "dumb" phase in between). This bottle combined the good characters of both without any hint of dumbness.
What stands between this excellent wine and a great one, is perhaps the lack of multi-layers of ever developing tastes I've come to associate with the truly great Bourgognes.
Another very minor disturbing fact (an advantage to some?) is that the wine, from first to last drop, was clear as water. No trace of sediment. It must have been filtered to leave absolutely no sediment after ten years! I'm pretty sure the filter took some of the taste-giving stuff away. Personally I dont mind a little sediment at all. All in all, a superb wine, tasty and wholesome. drink now!
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.