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Yesterday, dinner for four at our wine-partners' home. Daphna really outdid
herself and Amihai even printed a 'formal' menu, using lots of his
word-processor gimmicks.
Altogether, a fabulous evening. Great dinner, great company and great wines.
Criots-Batard-Montrachet 1989 L. Latour
2/95. Acquired from Beaune June-94 for $62 (imported for $76 net).
This rare white wine (only 800 cases annually) from the only Grand Cru
vineyard entirely within the commune of Chassagne-Montrachet.
COLOR: Clear, medium-deep gold.
NOSE: Powerful multi-layered aroma and bouquet that took about 10 minutes to
open completely. Not much fruit as such, rather mineral/metallic nuances
together with a faint yet discernable 'Bourgogne nose' that I have never
encountered in a white (B). Does the fact that both Pinot-Noir and Chardonnay
are planted in every major vineyard in Chassagne-Montrachet has something to
do with this phenomena?. Superb 'gout de terroir'.
TASTE: Though we tasted the wine first with the shrimps, it took sometime for
the strong effects of the Pate de Foie to disappear from the palate. At first
the wine was simply bitter (I've known for a long time that liver is a bad
company to ANY wine except for the best dessert wines). When the delicious
shrimps finally cleared the palate, the wine revealed its greatness. Very
elegant, full, yet assertive, fresh taste. Associations were made to almonds
and steel and minerals. Not a 'seductive' voluptuous wine, nor austere or
firm. Very rich, yet a bit reserved (still too young?). A wine of great breed
that complimented beautifully the very tasty shrimps in pesto and aubergine.
LENGTH: Forceful long after-taste, leaving never-ending fight between many
different taste nuances surrounding the tongue.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Viscous but not 'fat' texture. Tannin is still felt a
little, as well as good acidity and alcohol. Instead of accentuated fruit,
there are earthy qualities rather than vegetative ones. A white (B) that
resembles red more than anything I've ever tasted.
OVERALL: Superb and unusual wine. Probably in a couple of years will shed off
the last foot-prints of youth and will become totally extraordinary.
MARK: 17+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.
Bonnes Mares 1985 L. Jadot
2/95. Acquired from Beaune Sep-93 for $60 (imported for $78 net).
This famous Grand Cru comes from Jadot's own Domaine. His holdings are in the
small portion of the Bonnes Mares vineyard that lies in Morey-St. Denis. It
was part of the old Clair-Dau estate acquired by Jadot eleven years ago.
S. Spurrier: "fine, aromatic, powerful wine that requires old ageing to be at
its best"
S. Sutcliffe: "can appear quite hard and taut when young. full of breed and
opening out with age"
R. Parker (of this particular wine): "tasted vastly superior to the Musigny...
sheer power and decadent level of fruit extract", and proceeded to give it 92
(very high mark from him for a (B)).
It is well known that Bonnes Mares (esp. from the Morey part) needs old ageing
to be at its best. Recent lack of assurance WRT the keeping powers of the 1985
vintage plus the fact that I have another bottle, prompted me to try one now.
We shall see... The bottle was decanted and let to breath for more than an
hour.
COLOR: Brilliant medium-dark red, slightly paling towards the rim.
NOSE: Overwhelming perfume. Subdued yet discernable red-berries fruit,
combined ethery delicacy with powerful leather and mushrooms qualities. All
that was engulfed, in right proportions, by smooth 'Bourgogne nose'. A wine
that could be enjoyed for hours by just sniffing it.
TASTE: Not a bit coarse or firm or tannic as I had expected. On the contrary -
velvety, multidimensional taste around pronounced backbone. The rounded
tannins, the soft wood, the still-there-but-fading acidity tinge, the fruity
and earthy flavors, all combined to one big celebration that went beautifully
with the hearty fillet dish.
LENGTH: Lingered and developed infinitely after every sip.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full bodied, 'chewy' nectar. Excellent balance, no one
element masks the other.
OVERALL: Mature, yet full of restraint vigor and power behind its delicacy. An
extraordinary truly great (B). For sure will hold for some years to come. And
who knows? It may even reach higher spheres still.
MARK: 19/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.
Yak's Home Page |
Introducing Yak |
Yak's Rating Scale |
Yak's Burgundy Primer |
Tasting Notes Archive |
Wine & Food Adventures |