Clos de la Roche "VV" 1983 Dom. Ponsot
7/95. Bought in auction Feb-95 for $150 (imported from Chicago for $165 net).
This famous Grand Cru from Morey-St. Denis, made from the "Old Vines" cuvee of
the Domaine Ponsot. This is an extremely rare unfiltered wine of which only
about 200 cases were produced.
Tonight with mushrooms in sour-cream, good steak with potatoes and grape pie.
COLOR: Quite dark red, slight orange hues towards the rim. Not a completely
brilliant and clear wine.
NOSE: Another version of the familiar 'Bourgogne nose'. This time, apart from
the usual leather, earth and mushroom tones, there was a definite hint of
fresh green olives! That is a first for me. Fruit (cherry) was discernible,
but not overwhelming. An excellent complex bouquet altogether.
TASTE: The most powerful, blockbuster (B) I ever had! At 14.5% it is a
heavyweight wine that makes you take note of every mouthful and gulp. The wine
is so very concentrated and rich, yet it lacks something in the delicacy
department. Surprisingly, this 12 years (B) is not yet ready! The strong
tannins that still abound give a good fight to the myriad of tastes in the
mouth, but leave a kind of dryness in the mouth. A 'grand vin' in every
respect, though not as pleasant as it should be.
LENGTH: A medium length aftertaste, dominated by the unresolved tannins.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: A 'huge' wine, that is endowed with everything in big
quantities, but lacks the final touch that should have balanced the elements.
Like a spoiled child of rich parents who has everything in the world, but not
in the right proportions. A lot of alcohol, too much tannins, very good
acidity, good fruit, immensely concentrated yet short on finesse.
OVERALL: A superb and unusual wine no doubt, yet not as pleasurable (to me) as
it could have been. Will definitely wait another few years before I open my
other bottle. Maybe in time the distracting tannins will resolve.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.
Reach Me? yak@yakshaya.com
Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.