Volnay - Clos des Ducs..... Clos de Beze.....

Yesterday we were invited over for dinner to eager-to-learn but inexperienced friends. I brought two bottles with me. A '90 d'Angerville Clos des Ducs and a '83 Rousseau Clos de Beze. My motivation was to demonstrate the difference between a young yet-delicate 1er from the Cote de Beaune, and a fully mature 'manly' Grand Cru from the Cote de Nuits. I gave a learned introductory lecture. But then, when we opened the wines, something went completely wrong...

Volnay - Clos des Ducs		1990	Marquis d'Angerville

10/95. Acquired from Beaune May-94 for $30 (imported for $40 net).
This 'monopole' Premier Cru vineyard by one of the most distinguished grower in Volnay.
COLOR: One of the darkest (B) I ever saw. Dark intense violate color, that would not put to shame any Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah.
NOSE: Good, up-front black berries fruit. Plenty of wood. A nice 'Bourgogne Nose' though a little bit coarse.
TASTE: Pretty strong, no-nonsense fruit. Lots of vanilla flavors in a wine that is still quite closed. Very tasty stuff, though nothing complex or subtle here. The wine stood up very well to the assortment of pungent Hors d'Oeuvre. Where is the delicacy and elegance of Volnay?
LENGTH: Not much aftertaste to speak of.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: 'Big' wine with good structure and flesh. Nothing very complicated, though this wine certainly have some years before it really 'opens' up.
OVERALL: A very good wine that was liked immediately by our friends. Given blindly, I would never have guessed this is a five-years-old Volnay.
MARK: 16+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE?Maybe.

Chambertin Clos de Beze	     1983	A. Rousseau

10/95. Bought in auction Feb-95 for $85 (imported from Chicago for $95 net).
This very famous Grand Cru from Gevrey-Chambertin, by one of the best producers of the appellation.
COLOR: Pale brownish red. No one would think this is a young wine.
NOSE: Perfectly delicate 'Bourgogne Nose' enveloping beautiful discernable fruit, some earthy and 'gamey' elements, and pronounced mature sweetish undertones. A real fragrance delicacy.
TASTE: A very delicate, almost fragile and totally mature wine. The only way to fully enjoy this complex and multi-flavored nectar, was to leave it until after we finished the powerful lamb stew. Mature fruit is there, together with good acidity and some wood for frame.
LENGTH: Very long soft 'ethery' aftertaste that carried the fruit well into tens of seconds.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Extremely well-balanced, but soft-keyed. Surely lost some of its power and intensity but gained a wholesome and beautiful harmony. No tannins to speak of. Good structure but weakish flesh.
OVERALL: Still a superb wine, but a bit less extraordinary than the previous bottle I tasted some three months ago. Our friend (the man) was candid enough to say he liked the d'Angerville Clos de Ducs very much, but could not 'relate' to the oldish Clos de Beze...
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.