Musigny						1978	Clair-Dau

5/96. Acquired from England Dec-95 for $91 (imported for $107 net).
After we had a disappointing Roumier 1983 Musigny last week I decided to try this rarity. The two other (much older) Clair-Dau wines I had in recent months were both divine! They were a '69 Bonnes Mares and a '71 Clos St. Jacques. By 1978 however, the Clair-Dau domaine was already in decline. A deteriorating state which brought it demise in the mid 80s.
COLOR: Medium red, some brownish hues, not much clearing around the rim.
NOSE: Every time we poured from the bottle to the glasses, the nose was strong and unpleasant for about 30 seconds. Then it regained a beautiful mature aroma. Dried plums, with glimpses of fresh cherries now and then, all engulfed by a profound and enticing 'Bourgogne Nose' robe.
TASTE: Maybe a tiny bit passed its peak (the cork broke and didn't look healthy though the fill was perfect). Changed in the glass during the hour or so it took us to finish the bottle. At times it had a bitter touch, at times the sweetish plum taste, but at all times the wine was amazingly 'fleshy'. The complex and changing layers made almost every sip a different and exciting experience.
LENGTH: Extraordinary long and full-of-presence aftertaste. A classic example of the 'peacock tail', where the wine continues to reverberate in the mouth long after the sip has been swallowed.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full bodied heavy-textured wine that cries out its breed and elegance. Somewhat out of balance, but in no way dried out.
OVERALL: A superb+ wine, just a little bit short of being perfect. Either the winemaking was not first class and/or past provenance was less than perfect. A remarkable wine in any event. Drink up if you have a bottle.
MARK: 18+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.

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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.