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28-Mar-97
Another 'Grand Dinner' at our wine partners Amihai and Dafna.
Chevalier-Montrachet "Les Demoiselles" 1990 L. Jadot
3/97. Acquired from France Sep-93 for $78 (Imported from Beaune for $104 net).
One of the greatest dry whites of this world, from Jadot's famous 'Les
Demoiselles' sub-plot in the Chevalier Montrachet vineyard.
COLOR: Medium golden yellow. Viscous and fat looking. Marked 'legs' on the glass
(a rarity for white wine).
NOSE: Super elegant! Deep yet fragrant. Maturish-young rather than
youngish-mature. Complex apples-pears fruit, a touch of honey - very creamy
nose. Hardly any wood felt. Pure Chardonnay at it utmost best.
TASTE: Mouth-filling, rich and reverberating. Unbelievably tasty. Although meant
to accompany all dishes till the main course - the bottle was finished very
quickly.
LENGTH: Long and enticing aftertaste, though not as long as I expected it.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Surprisingly only 'Mid weight' wine. Extremely elegant in all
respects though not as blockbusterly concentrated as the 1988 I had a couple of
years ago.
OVERALL: Extraordinary experience from an extraordinary wine. Ready to drink now
though will keep and develop for some years.
MARK: 19/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.
Grands Echezeaux 1985 R. Sirugue
3/97. Acquired at auction Dec-93 for $100 (Imported from Chicago for $112 net).
Robert Sirugue - a small but quality-minded grower - has a tiny holding in this
famous Grand Cru vineyard.
COLOR: Typical garnet red. Not much clearing towards the rim. Looks healthier
than what might be expected from a 12-years (B).
NOSE: Minor-keyed though fully developed 'Bourgogne Nose' acts as perfect
backdrop to mature red fruits. Some tone reminded me of certain Praline though I
can't remember which... Grand Cru nose par excellance!
TASTE: Ripe, rich, multi-layered. Sweetish dried plums on the palate. Very
concentrated and 'winy' wine. Extremely tasty and still as charming as the
vintage.
LENGTH: Medium length of good though slightly acidic aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-full body. Excellent concentration, a lot of
'winyness', ripe and soft tannins, good acidity. Great balance.
OVERALL: Superb! Where the wines were concentrated to start with - the '85s are
still wonderful. Drink now if you have a bottle.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.
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