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The Cyprus Experience

21-July-97

Just returned from six days vacation in Cyprus. We stayed in two different places there. Both five-stars resort hotels that are really very nice. "Aeneas" Hotel in Ayia Napa and "Coral Beach" near Paphos. Ayia Napa is a tourist resort in the south-eastern part of the island, while Paphos is a small fishing village that lies on the western tip of the island.
The people, the scenery, the food, the wine and the overall atmosphere is easy-going and very pleasant. As we stayed in luxury resort hotels, surrounded by tourists, we did our best to get out - visit the local countryside, eat the best local food and sample whatever good wines we could get our hands on.
No doubt the best way to sample the local kitchen is to be served a top-quality 'Mezeh', an endless procession of small plates that can last two or three hours. From "Hores d'Ouvres" like salad, tahini, tsatsiki, grilled Haloumi cheese, potatoes etc., through grilled and/or deep fried calamari, octopus, Barbunias, Cattle-fish, Sword-fish, to pork and lamb delicacies...
Following are a few notes I took of the different wines we sampled in the order we tasted them.


ARSINOE 62

Non-vintage very aromatic dry white wine made of the local Xinesteri grape. Light, almost watery in color. Nose is dry and surprisingly sherry-like. Full bodied and quite pleasant on the palate. Looses its freshness and its aroma after about 30 minutes.
MARK: 15/20.

KEO HOCK

KEO is the largest and most diverse winery in Cyprus. This non-vintage 'Hock' has similar characteristics to the Arsinoe 62. It has darker color, but the nose as well as the taste are really coarse. The worst wine we've tasted there.
MARK: 13/20.

1993 SEMELI

Dry red wine made from a mixture of local grapes. Dark Bordeaux-like color. Soft and warm fruity aroma, not unlike Merlot. Discernible wood aging. Rich, full and really tasty. Soft tannins but weak acidity. Very good wine.
MARK: 16/20.

1986 GAVA - GRAND RESERVE

Classic dry red wine made from choice local Mavro grapes. Medium dark ruby color, a little bit fading. Soft and mature fruity aroma with no wood detected. Full, pleasant and very smooth taste. Good acidity, soft tannins and silky texture. Perhaps a year or two beyond its peak but still an excellent wine.
MARK: 17/20.

1989 HERITAGE

The 'top-of-the-line' KEO red wine of which less than 1300 cases are made. I am told the 1989 vintage was the best in the last 20 years. The wine is made from rare indigenous Pambakina grape and aged in new wood. Impressive dark opaque color. Black fruit, pepper and spices on the nose. Aroma that reminded me of a good Chateauneuf du Pape. Rich elegant and mouthfilling taste. Extremely long dry-prunes aftertaste. Exquisite balance. Superb wine worth seeking.
MARK: 18/20.

APHRODITE

Non-vintage young light and pleasant white wine. Light color. Fresh acidic aroma. Crisp, very pleasant uncomplicated taste. Very refreshing and extremely suitable to accompany the local seafood.
MARK: 15+/20.

PAPHOS 'Village'

Simple light karaf red wine. Fresh and surprisingly tasty quaff. Unpretentious yet extremely pleasant nose and taste.
MARK: 15/20.


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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.