Criots-Batard-Montrachet..... Clos de Vougeot..... Corton, Bressandes.....

Criots Batard Montrachet	1990	L. Jadot

7/98. Acquired from Beaune for $69 in June-94 (imported for $92 net).
Criots Batard Montrachet, one of the satellite Grand Cru of Montrachet is the only Grand Cru vineyard solely within the boundaries of Chassagne-Montrachet.
COLOR: Seemed to be medium-full yellow but hard to tell at the dim lights of the restaurant.
NOSE: Very clean nose of wet stones and white-fruits like pears and apples together with flowery scents. Judicious use of non-masking wood. Mildly subdued but very pleasant nose.
TASTE: Nothing subdued about the taste! Mouthfilling, complex and multi-layered. Mature fruit, minerals, good acidity, luscious fatness with a touch of honey at the finish.
LENGTH: Extremely long sweetish aftertaste to this bone-dry wine.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full bodied and fat. Beautifully concentrated, clean and rounded. Superbly balanced too.
OVERALL: Superb! Elegant and full of presence. At or near its peak now.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Clos de Vougeot "VV"		1988	Chateau de Latour

7/98. Oded Lerer brought this wine. It cost him about $70.
My first taste from this famous domaine, the largest owner in the Clos de Vougeot. The two elderly sisters operate from the funny-looking chateau half-way down the slope of the vineyard. Since the mid 80s they are known to be disciples of Guy Accad's methods of cold maceration.
COLOR: Quite dark for a (B) wine, even when making allowance for the dim lights.
NOSE: Somewhat reserved at first, but beautifully balanced between somber fruit, soft wood, chocolate tones and a restraint version of 'Bourgogne Nose'. In time the nose opened up a bit but never became completely forward. Quite noble and perfectly balanced (nose!).
TASTE: Complex and elegant. Again, not so much outwardly rich but soft, multi-flavored and velvety on the palate in spite of the ripe tannins. Excellent, sure-handed feel with obvious breed. Nothing I tasted here suggested Guy Accad though...
LENGTH: Medium long but extremely well-balanced aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-bodied and typical 1988 in its structure and reservedness. More delicate than I'd expected and beautifully balanced though in minor terms.
OVERALL: Excellent-plus now, but let there be no mistake here, the constitution of this wine - both on the nose and on the palate - makes it a sure bet that it'll develop and open up further in years to come.
MARK: 17.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Corton 'Bressandes'		1990	J. Drouhin

7/98. Acquired from Beaune June-94 for $39 (imported for $52 net).
This plot in Corton 'Bressandes' belongs to the Domaine Drouhin. i.e they are not acting as negociants here but rather as owners.
COLOR: As dark as the Clos de Vougeot, though a thin clearing around the rim was discernible.
NOSE: Very pronounced and forward 'Bourgogne Nose' with some simple fruit. A bit vulgar without much complexity or refinement.
TASTE: An all-out forward taste but again, nothing deep. Plenty of fruit and lots of acidity, very little tannins and only moderate winyness. Not that the wine is not tasty, but a 1990 'Grand Cru' should have more stuffing.
LENGTH: Medium length, aftertaste dominated by acidity.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-bodied. Does not lack in fruit, but quite coarse, inelegant with little winyness to counter the (B) elements and the acidity.
OVERALL: Very good but not more. Unlike the Clos de Vougeot, this wine shows all that it has - only it ain't much.
MARK: 16/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.