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Chassagne - Chenevottes..... Clos de Vougeot.....


27-Jan-99

To celebrate our friend Migry's birthday, we met her and her visiting boyfriend at Roshfeld for dinner.
Food, service and atmosphere were all superb as usual, with the wines I chose proving to be exceptionally good.

Goose liver with apples in Shiraz essence
Shrimps in delicate lobster soup
Beef carpaccio
Rich 'Bouride' fish soup
1992 Chassagne-Montrachet 'Chenevottes', M. Niellon
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Lamb stew
Roasted pigeon with mushrooms in red sauce
Charolet steak in red wine (for two)
1990 Clos de Vougeot, L. Jadot
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Assortment of desserts
Tea and coffee


Chassagne-Montrachet 'Chenevottes' 1992 M. Niellon

1/99. Bought in London March-96 for $41.
I've heard a lot of good things about him but this is my first wine from Michel Niellon. Judging by this bottle it will certainly not be my last!
COLOR: Medium straw color, neither deep nor pale.
NOSE: A real celebration of aromas and bouquet. Fresh flowers, subtle minerals and northern fruits. Slightly sweetish tones with measured wood that adds complexity to a perfectly enticing nose. Simply wonderful!
TASTE: Not legging one bit behind the nose. Elegant, classy, multi-flavored and mouth-filling. A beautiful combination of opulence and elegance, purity of fruit and excellent structure. An incredible pleasure to sip...
LENGTH: Medium-length but intoxicating aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-bodied and medium-textured. Extremely enticing and classy. Completely harmonious wine with perfect balance to boot. Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru at its very best.
OVERALL: Extraordinary!!! I have not tasted such a good white (B) in a long time. At its peak now but will hold.
MARK: 19/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.


Clos de Vougeot 1990 L. Jadot

1/99. Acquired from Beaune May-95 for $50 (imported for $66 net).
Clos de Vougeot, one of the most abused names in the Cote d'Or. The big walled vineyard that had it borders drawn in the 13th century is divided between some 80 different owners! Diversity of specific location and winemaking ability led to enormous quality difference between the top wines and the also-rans. Domaine L. Jadot currently holds one of the best parcels there and is considered among the very best producers for this often maligned vineyard.
COLOR: Medium-dark (B)-red. Slight clearing around the rim.
NOSE: Fantastic, full nose of rich and complex aromas. Fresh red forest fruits mixed with earthy elements and a beautiful 'Bourgogne Nose'. Not completely forward yet but neither reserved nor restrained.
TASTE: Here also the taste beautifully follows the nose. Very 'winey' with good fruit and layers of complex flavors. A 'full expression wine that delicately performs tap dance with your taste buds.
LENGTH: Very long aftertaste that keeps developing long after each sip has been swallowed.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-full body with pretty fat texture. Excellent structure with very good fruit, plenty of winyness, good acidity and tannins that are still a little bit felt. About a couple of years away from full maturity.
OVERALL: Superb-plus!! The best Clos Vougeot I can remember. Will undoubtedly reach even higher spheres in a few years when all elements gets harmoniously blended.
MARK: 18.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.


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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.