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Mormoreto..... Mastrojanni, Brunello..... Barolo 'Bric del Fiasc'..... I Capitelli.....


21-March-2003

We were invited over to our good friends Eli & Gilly for Friday night dinner. Also invited were Eli Ben-Zaken - the best Israeli winemaker - and his lovely wife Monique.
Gilly prepared a lavish and delicious four course dinner, and Eli provided the all-Italian wines to accompany it.
The food, wines, company and atmosphere were all superb. A wonderful evening!

Four small baskets of Filo, each filled with different vegetable and Italian cheese
1990 Mormoreto, Frescobaldi
______
Homemade Fettuccine with Porcini, Morilles and Truffles
1990 Brunello di Montalcine, Mastrojanni
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Lamb stew Mediterranean style
1990 Barolo 'Bric del Fiasc', P. Scavino
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Almonds Mascarpone
1996 Recioto di Soave 'I Capitelli', Anselmi


Mormoreto 1990 Frescobaldi

3/2003.
A Bordeaux-type blend (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon) from a single vineyard in Castelo di Nipozzano, Tuscany. The wine is only produced in good years and in small quantities. It is aged for two years in French oak.
COLOR: Deep ruby red. Slight clearing around the rim.
NOSE: Noticeable Cabernet elements that are 'rounder' than what a New-World wine would be. Wood is there, but not over-powering. Very pleasant and harmonious.
TASTE: On the palate the wine is full, supple and tasty. Fruit is there as well as other, more subtle, flavors. Good concentration and winyness. Not super deep, but very satisfying.
LENGTH: Long and pleasant aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-full bodied wine of fine structure and backbone. Very soft tannins and good acidity add to the perfect balance.
OVERALL: Very Fine. A stylish wine that is drinking perfectly now.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.


Brunello del Montalcino 1990 Mastrojanni

3/2003.
The memories of an outstanding bottle of this wine we had in Toscana more than two years ago filled me with excitement when we opened this bottle. Alas...
COLOR: Medium ruby, slightly brownish. Noticeable clearing towards the rim.
NOSE: Somewhat cooked nose with more than a hint of Madeira. Still a fine and complex, but obviously past its peak.
TASTE: Still tasty and multi-flavored but definitely past its prime. Again, very drinkable and enjoyable, but a far cry from what this wine could be.
LENGTH: Medium long but a bit coarse aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium bodied wine that had seen better times.
OVERALL: Good. This bottle must have been kept under less-than-optimal conditions before Eli got to it.
MARK: 16/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.


Barolo 'Bric del Fiasc' 1990 P. Scavino

3/2003.
A single-vineyard Barolo from an excellent vintage. Made by Enrico Scavino, one of the more 'modernists' of the top Barolo producers.
COLOR: Dark ruby with no clearing around the rim.
NOSE: Elegant nose of red forest fruit. A touch of slightly smoked wood add to the harmony of the deep and complex nose.
TASTE: Serious wine in every department. Rich, mouthfilling, multi-dimensional, winey and really tasty. Perfect acidity and round soft tannins add to the total palate experience.
LENGTH: Very very long and reverberating aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full bodied Barolo that is not only perfectly balanced, but is completely ready to enjoy.
OVERALL: Superb. A really fine example of an early-maturing Barolo.
MARK: 18.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.


Recioto di Soave 'I Capitelli' 1996 Anselmi

3/2003..
Dessert wine from Veneto made from the Garganega grapes. The grapes are left to dry in well-ventilated rooms in the winery till they catch some botrytis.
COLOR: Dull amber-yellow color. Looks viscous and rich.
NOSE: Complex and elegant bouquet, with floral aromas as well as mature oranges and a touch of honey.
TASTE: Sweet and somewhat heavy on the palate, yet very tasty. Full, round and persistent flavors with really fine structure. A bit lacking in acidity though.
LENGTH: Long, persistent an clean aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-bodied and very viscous wine. Good structure though could have more acidity for balance.
OVERALL: Very Fine. A dessert wine with its own message. Quite different from French or German counterparts.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? yes.


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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.