20-Apr-2002
Tasting Beaucastel with Pierre Perrin
Saturday morning we were taken to the tasting rooms of Lay & Wheeler in Colchester, a 20 minutes drive from Hintlesham Hall, where Pierre Perrin, the younger of the Perrin brothers, was to present his Beaucastel wines.
This is a good place as any to mention the professional, courteous and generous manner in which Lay & Wheeler (and especially Hugo Rose MW and Richard Brooks) treated us all throughout the weekend.
I have been enjoying the terrific Ch. de Beaucastel for many years and was thrilled to hear and taste more from this favorite domaine of mine.
Pierre Perrin is an articulated bright young winemaker who, like his father before him, is dedicated to bring out the best possible expression of terroir through organic methods in the vineyard, low yield and careful selection.
Perhaps the most notable aspect of the Perrins winemaking is the art of blending different types of grapes to bring about complex, harmonious and well balanced wines. This is true of course for their famous Chateau de Beaucastel, where all permitted thirteen verities of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation participate in the party. But it is also true for the different other cuvees produced at the domaine.
2001 Cotes du Rhone Blanc, Perrin Reserve - A blend of Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. This is simple, flowery, fresh white wine with no wood notes. Not much complexity or depth here, but the wine is neither harsh nor coarse. Quite pleasant.
Fair. MARK 15/20.
2000 Ch. de Beaucastel Blanc - Definitely more complex than the simple Cote du Rhone. 80% Roussanne, 15% Grenache blanc and some other grapes go into the blend here. Pretty deep fruity nose and taste with noticeable (dry) honeyed finish.
Good-plus. MARK 16.5/20.
1999 Roussanne Vieilles Vignes Beaucastel - I have had in the past the wonderful 1990 vintage of this rarity. It is made of 80+ years-old Roussanne vines. Although still extremely young, this wine here expressed very deep minerally nose with complex honeyed flavors. Outstanding future ahead.
Very Fine. MARK 18/20.
1998 Vacqueyras - Syrah and Grenache here. Simple nose and coarse on the palate. Well structured but lacking any finesse.
Passable. MARK 14/20.
1998 Gigondas - 50% Grenache with Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise and Picpoul providing the rest of the blend. Spicy nose, lots of fruit on the palate. But the harsh tannins make this wine a bit hard to enjoy.
Reasonable. MARK 15.5/20.
1999 Chateauneuf du Pape 'Les Sinards' - Can this be designated as the 2nd wine of Ch. de Beaucastel? Made from Perrin's own vines and some bought grapes. Medium nose. Quite interesting on the palate. Pretty complex with round tannins.
Good. MARK 16/20.
What followed was a unique and extremely interesting experience. Pierre Perrin said they have never before moved base wines that are used in the blending of Ch. de Beaucastel outside the Domaine, let alone bottle some and ship it abroad.
Here we tasted, side by side, the 2001 pure Grenache, Counoise, Syrah and Mourvedre that in three-weeks time will go into the final blend of the 2001 Chateau de Beaucastel!
2001 Chateau de Beaucastel, Grenache - Basic wine. Alcoholic, fruity, but lacks acidity.
2001 Chateau de Beaucastel, Counoise - Dense and heavy. Extremely spicy. More like an essence of wine than something that can produce balanced palatable wine on its own
2001 Chateau de Beaucastel, Syrah - Simple and tasty, with hints of spice.
2001 Chateau de Beaucastel, Mourvedre - Apparent fruit with very good acidity.
2001 "Self made" Chateau de Beaucastel - After tasting each of the ingredient wines, Pierre asked each of us to make the blend with approximately 30% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache and 10% Counoise. Though this was a far cry from the professionally measured and blended Beaucastel they make in the winery, and in spite of the fact that we were missing a few of the small participant varieties in the final wine, the result was amazing! I could definitely smell and taste the contribution of the four different grapes. The "Chateau de Beaucastel" we concocted was a far more complex, balanced and multi-dimensional wine than any of its ingredients.
An extraordinary and educative exercise!
1999 Chateau de Beaucastel - Very young for a Beaucastel of course, but already boasting of good, if somewhat green, nose where black fruit and spices abound. Good acidity and deep flavors on the palate. Will no doubt improve with time.
Very Fine. MARK 18/20.
1989 Chateau de Beaucastel - Now we're talking! I have tasted this wine so many times, and it never ceased to amaze me. Complex nose with multiple ripe aromas. Deep winey concentrated flavors that are both stylish and uniquely expressive. Close to its peak
Outstanding! MARK 19/20.
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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.