Decanter Master Class, London 22-Nov-97
A Passion for Port - Fonseca
Bruce Guimaraens
The fourth and last Master Class on the first day was given by Bruce Guimaraens, the
legendary owner and winemaker of the great house of Fonseca. Mr. Guimaraens, an
Englishman to the core if born and lived all his life in Portugal, has just released
the winemaking duties to his son after being at the helm for more than 35 years.
Resembling somewhat the British actor Robert Morley, Bruce comes thru as an
intriguing mixture. A bastion of conservatism on one hand (they will never replace
foot treading) and an great innovator on the other (introducing new forms of port
all the time). Someone who takes his winemaking very seriously, but jokes openly
about the hoopla his wines get. A fascinating man!
We tasted ten Fonseca wines. From the dry white "Siroco" to the Vintage Port of
1970. In no other Master Class, the increase in quality as we climbed the ladder was
so evident. A very enjoyable and educative session.
SIROCO - Dry white wine (30 gr of residual sugar), aged for
three years in wood barrels then a few weeks in stainless steel. Highly acidic, reminded me of
dry Sherry. Not really exciting.
Good. MARK 15/20.
BIN 27 - Dark looking, sweet, fruity. Full bodied but lack
complexity. Again, not very exciting.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.
LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) 1992 - This "poor-man's Vintage
Port" was very dark, with toffy and orange tones on the nose. Sweet but tough and tannic on
the palate.
Very-good-plus. MARK 16+/20.
10 YEARS TAWNY - Medium color, nuts and marzipan on the nose,
plenty of fresh fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.
20 YEARS TAWNY - Quite pale in appearance. Fruit and caramel
on the nose. Very delicate on the palate. Excellent acidity and perfect balance.
Superb! MARK 18/20.
FONSECA 1982 "Guimaraens" - The "Guimaraens" bottling
signifies a vintage port that was not officially 'declared'. Pretty dark, soft pleasant and
smooth. Lots of acidity.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.
FONSECA 1985 - Very dark color, tea and caramel notes on
the nose. Plenty of fruit with good acidity on the palate.
Excellent-plus! MARK 17+/20.
FONSECA 1994 - Jet black appearance. Closed nose. Profound
but extremely tannic on the palate. Too closed now but probably get much better in distant future.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.
FONSECA 1995 "Guimaraens" - As black as the '94. More
forward nose, soft and pleasant on the palate.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.
FONSECA 1970 - A bit pale comparatively. Very complex nose of
forest fruit, oranges, caramel and toffy. Pleasant fruit on the palate, good acidity and very
long aftertaste.
Superb-plus! MARK 18+/20
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