Decanter Master Class, London 23-Nov-97
Riding the Rhone - Chapoutier
Michel Chapoutier
The last Master Class was given by Michel Chapoutier, the colorful and controversial
bio-dynamics disciple. He and his brother 'bought out' the rest of the family some
seven years ago.
With Michel, it is not enough to avoid chemicals as fertilizers. He claims that the denser the
vineyard is planted - the deeper the roots the vines will dig and the lower the final yield will
become. Chemicals make it easy for the vine to get what it wants with shallow, side-spread roots,
and thus deprive it of the essential nutritions that are found deeper in the
soil and of the unique qualities of the local terroir. Furthermore,
chemicals spread in the vineyard encourage pest fungi and reduce natural acidity in the soil
(and thus in the grapes).
The idea of the session was to demonstrate how Chapoutier wines improved year by
year as Michel's ideas took more and more effect, both in the vineyard and in the cellar.
We vertically tasted two different wines. The white Hermitage "Chante Alouette" and
the red Hermitage "La Sizeranne".
In defiance of tradition (and in order to make his point), Michel asked that we
taste the wines from oldest to youngest.
HERMITAGE CHANTE ALOUETTE 1992 - 30% new wood. Very nice golden
color. Minerals, butter and peaches on the nose. Some honey on the palate, very 'lactic' with
high acidity.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.
HERMITAGE CHANTE ALOUETTE 1993 - Lots of honey on the nose. Not
particularly concentrated on the palate but fruity and elegant.
Very-good-plus. MARK 16+/20.
HERMITAGE CHANTE ALOUETTE 1994 - Very nice fruity nose with
lemony tones. Reasonable concentrated, pleasant and tasty fruit, good acidity.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.
HERMITAGE CHANTE ALOUETTE 1995 - 50-60% new oak. Lemon, melon &
peaches on the nose. Discernible but unobstructive wood too. Tons of sweetish fruit, extremely
tasty, perfect balance and great length.
Superb!! MARK 18/20.
HERMITAGE CHANTE ALOUETTE 1996 - Very similar to the '95,
perhaps a tad less wonderful.
Excellent-plus! MARK 17+/20.
HERMITAGE LA SIZERANNE 1992 - High extract of red fruit on the
nose. A Syrah bomb. Tannic and closed on the palate.
Very-good-plus. MARK 16+/20.
HERMITAGE LA SIZERANNE 1993 - Pepper and spices together with a
strong Rhone nose. Good fruit on the palate with soft tannins. Good acidity too.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.
HERMITAGE LA SIZERANNE 1994 - Wonderful complex nose of
blackcurrents, spices and 'Rhone Nose' enhanced by wood. Very tannic, medium bodied, multi-layered
and very elegant.
Excellent-plus! MARK 17+/20.
HERMITAGE LA SIZERANNE 1995 - Even more enticing nose than the
'94 with the same elements only more of them. Softer and elegant tannins, plenty of fruit,
beautiful balance.
Superb!! MARK 18/20.
This was the last of the seven Master Classes we attended. Almost all of them were
fascinating, educative and unique experience for me.
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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.