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Breathtaking Iceland

August-2001

I have always been fascinated by Iceland, even as a child. I can still remember the grayish stamp in my collection, depicting the famous geyser of Iceland. A remote island, so far away in the north, where vikings surly roam the wild and harsh land...
Well, many years have passed till finally, for a week in mid August 2001, I fulfilled an old dream.
A bit of geography-geology first. Iceland is an island in the north Atlantic, almost touching the Arctic Circle. Its area is more than 100,000 sq.km (about 40,000 sq.m) but its population is only 275,000 which makes it one of the least populated countries on earth. Furthermore, about 70% of the population lives in and around the capital Reykjavik and the rest are spread along a thin belt around the shores. The interior is covered by huge glaciers and is completely uninhabited
The more significant aspect of Iceland however is the fact that it lies exactly on the divide between the Euro-Asian and the North American tectonic plates. This "loose" region in the earth crest undergoes constant geological activity, which give rise to numerous earthquakes, volcano eruptions, hot steam, waterfalls and geysers sprouting everywhere.
The result of this constant 'war' between ice and fire is a breathtakingly beautiful rugged island, where the powers of nature created [and continue to create] the most dramatic scenery imaginable.
The moss-covered surrealistic-looking lava fields and the strange rock formations that abound are the hallmark of the Icelandic landscape.


Lava rocks & moss-covered soil
Lava rocks and moss-covered soil
Lava plow-marks, Thingvellir
Lava plow-marks, Thingvellir


Reykjavik itself is a pleasant-looking, non-assuming yet bustling town with a beautiful large lake in its very center.
We stayed in Reykjavik at the cosy and comfortable 'old-world' Hotel Borg, from where we took numerous trips around the island.
Iceland weather, even in summer, can be harsh, cold and rainy. Uncharacteristically though, we were extremely lucky to have only one half-day of rain during our whole stay.

Reykjavik from roof-top revolving restaurant
Reykjavik from roof-top revolving restaurant
Reykjavik lake
Reykjavik lake

We did not come to Iceland for its gastronomic delights, but we were surprised to discover that the quality of food and service we got everywhere was exceptionally high. Eating out in Iceland is expensive [as indeed everything else is] and wine is all the more so. I'll mention some of the better meals we had along our itinerary. The few wines we had were extremely expensive and not worth remembering.

Hotel Borg - We were pretty tired on the day of our arrival, so we took dinner at the hotel's restaurant. As it turned out, Hotel Borg restaurant is considered among the best in Reykjavik.

Seafood soup in light curry
Lobster soup
______
Pasta with salmon, asparagus and almonds
Pan-fried halved langoustines in tender coating

Moderately expensive. Recommended.


During our week in Iceland we managed two full-day trips outside Reykjavik plus one two-days trip with overnight at Akureyri, the northern capital of Iceland.

Magnus Hjartarson, our guide & driver We hired the services of the gentle charming and knowledgeable Magnus Hjartarson who, with his brand-new Mercedes, was our guide and driver for the duration of our stay in Iceland.
Although at an age when most people have long been in retirement, his physical and mental agility were astounding. Almost every lake, river or waterfall evoked a relevant saga story or poem from Magnus.
Not only is he experienced knowledgeable and helpful, but his stamina and persistence at getting us to see and experience all that we could during our short stay were way and beyond his 'call of duty'


The first trip was the 9-hours "must-do" Golden Circle. It included natural steam power-station. Thingvellir, the valley where the first 'parliament' in the world, the Althing, convened more than a 1000 years ago. The famous Geysyr, that gave the world the term geyser. The astonishing Gulfoss waterfall, the secluded Faxi waterfall, and the beautiful volcano crater lake.

Strokkur geyser
Strokkur geyser
Gulfoss waterfall
Gulfoss waterfall


Faxi waterfall
Faxi waterfall
Volcano crater lake
Volcano crater lake


Returning to Reykjavik from this fascinating day trip we had dinner at the Apotek.
Apotek - A casually-elegant 'inn' place in Reykjavik. A modern 'fusion' kind of restaurant that mixes Icelandic products with oriental cooking style and does it remarkably well!

Tuna tartar, wanton and coriander sauce
Langoustine in soy sauce
Pasta with salmon, asparagus and almonds
Super-rich duck soup with transparent noodles [fantastic!]
Eight pieces of sushi

Highly Recommended!


The next day we spent in Reykjavik. Strolling around the town we watched the ducks and swans in the city lake, saw an extremely interesting movie made and presented by the guy who documents volcanic eruptions in Iceland, visited the art museum and generally enjoyed ourselves. We had dinner at the elegant roof-top Pearl restaurant.
The Pearl - A roof-top glass-windowed revolving restaurant just outside Reykjavik, from which one can see a panoramic view of the city and its surroundings.

Tartar of Herring in beet root sauce
Scallops
Terrine of smoked salmon and eel
_______
Lobster soup
_______
Three kinds of fish
Fillet of lamb
_______
Cheese
Apple Pie

Expensive and beautiful. Recommended


Our second trip was south east of Reykjavik, along the south shore, down to the town of Vik. More waterfalls, the tip of one lava-covered glacier, the last of the Puffin birds [the breeding season was over], dramatic rock formations, more rivers lakes and waterfalls and more beauriful countryside.

Kuk at the hidden waterfall
Dorit at the hidden waterfall
Dramatic-looking island
Dramatic-looking rock island


Sea shore rock formation
Sea shore rock formation
High drop Skogafoss waterfall
High drop Skogafoss waterfall


After this 10-hours trip we had for dinner at the Lobster House, a must-book restaurant a few meters from our hotel in Reykjavik.
The Lobster House - An elegant small restaurant in the center of Reykjavik.

Sashimi of lobster tuna and salmon
Guillemot (bird) smoked in tea leaves
_______
Lobster chunks lightly sauteed in champagne sauce, apple stripes, green onion and more
Wok fried lobster with soy sauce and Japanese noodles

Quite Expensive. Highly Recommended!


Our third trip in Iceland was the longest and toughest. A 500 km drive - some of it on rough unpaved roads - to Akureyri, the northernmost town of any consequence on the island. This is a good place as any to mention the beautiful pony-like Icelandic horses. They are everywhere as are many sheep and cows. How they survive on the moss or thin grass that cover the soil is beyond me, but they do.
Long hours of changing scenery. Gentle hills, snow capped mountains, waterfalls, lava fields, countless streams, rivers and lakes.

Beautiful Icelandic horses
Beautiful Icelandic horses
Rugged mountain contours
Rugged mountain contours


In Akureyri we stayed at the nothing-special Kea Hotel. We had dinner at the elegant Fiddler restaurant.
The Fiddler - An elegant restaurant on the fifth floor of the highest building in Akureyri, overlooking the town. We invited Magnus our guide and driver to join us for dinner.

Lobster soup
Lobster chunks in butter
Roasted tuna
_______
Seafood in light curry sauce
Boiled Turbot
Leg of lamb
_______
Mango and passion fruit ice-cream

Expensive. Recommended!


After dinner we walked around town. As it was Saturday night there were street vendors, musicians, actors and whatnot in the crowded streets long after we called it a day around midnight...

Next day we drove towards the beautiful Lake Myvatn, where there is supposed to be the largest concentration of duck species in Europe. We did spot a lot of birds but it was pretty difficult to identify them all. Lake Myvatn itself has a strangely amorphic shape, is surrounded by lava fields and formations amidst countless small streams lakes and waterfalls. On the way to the lake we passed the magnificent Godafoss waterfall.
Godafoss (Waterfall of the Gods)
Godafoss (Waterfall of the Gods)
Yak at Godafoss
Yak at Godafoss


Lake Myvatn
Lake Myvatn
On the way to Husavik
On the way to Husavik


From Lake Myvatn we headed towards Husavik, the northernmost point we have ever been to. Husavik is a small fishing village north east of Akureyri. In Husavik we went whale hunting [i.e whale watching]. We took a three-hours boat ride farther north into the sea, and at one point reached within 25 miles of the Arctic Circle.
We were mildly unlucky as all that we saw at close quarters were three or four Minky Whales [the smallest species, only 25 feet long or so] plus a few dolphins.
After a whole day of activity and mileage, we headed back towards Reykjavik. Magnus drove some 700 hard kilometers that day...
Husavik
The fishing port at Husavik
Kuk the whale watcher
Dorit the whale watcher


A short but very intensive week in this wonderful island where the scenery is breathtaking and the people are easy going surly left us with a taste for more...

Reach Me? yak@yakshaya.com

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.